Craig Pen Trwyn
Climbing
Regulations on 30 October 2026
Signs at the site and later resolutions prevail; check the source.
The position marks the site rather than the extent of the rule.
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Voluntary closure
Climbing · 25 Mar to 30 Jun
Not in force on 30 October 2026
Restrictions apply from 25 March - 30 June.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June.
An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site.
Sectors:
- No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black
- Testament to Lyon's Share
Published by BMC, 16 Mar 2026 · Craig Pen Trwyn
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Voluntary closure
Climbing · 25 Mar to 31 Jul
Not in force on 30 October 2026
Restrictions apply from 25 March - 30 June.
Reason: Nesting Birds
[…]
The Disillusioned Screw Machine- Rock Pipet nesting in one of the pockets on the route, unavoidable so please don't climb until end of July.
Sectors:
- The Disillusioned Screw Machine
Published by BMC, 16 Mar 2026 · Craig Pen Trwyn
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Regulated
Climbing · All year
In force on 30 October 2026
Not confirmed by an official source.
Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.
Published by BMC, 16 Mar 2026 · Craig Pen Trwyn
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Regulated
Climbing · 15 Jul to 8 Sept
Not in force on 30 October 2026
Not confirmed by an official source.
No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.
Published by BMC, 16 Mar 2026 · Craig Pen Trwyn